Epicure

The 29th annual “Running of the Shad” at The Peppermill restaurant is upon us in February, and co-owner Dave Jones (Rick Ziegel is his partner) says, “If we don’t sell the most in this area, we at least sell at the very top.” So, who eats this fish roe delicacy that looks like two brain lobes, tastes a little like liver, yet quite fishy, and has a granular feel on the palate?  Well, says Jones, “It does have its own distinct taste.  And it’s very popular with certain people. Not everyone. It’s a very traditional dish.” And those who love it flock to The Peppermill from the first week of February until mid-May, as long as the ocean fish are spawning and producing.  Grilled and served with bacon, shad roe is quite heavy, so a good wine suggestion is Boordy Vineyard ‘Rockfish,’ offering three blended grapes: Seyval, Vidal and Chardonnay.  The perfect ending to the meal— a made-in-house blueberry bread pudding, topped with a warm bourbon sauce. 1301 York Road, 410-583-1107, http://www.pepmill.com  —Sarah Gilbert Fox