Epicure

Is it a tavern, café or bistro? Ten Ten, the sophisticated spin-off of the adjacent Bagby Pizza Co., turns out to be a combination of all three. Its café/bistro side reveals itself during lunch with a menu featuring quiche, salads and a roster of sandwiches ranging from a smoked turkey muffaletta to roasted porchetta with shaved fontina and broccoli rabe. During weekday happy hours, the illuminated marble bar draws a crowd, as diners down Belgian ales and $5 appetizers of Dutch mussels and duck fat fries.  For dinner, chef Mark Davis ups the ante with crispy duck confit or rockfish with a “Southern-style” succotash. There’s even a three-course prix fixe menu offered Sundays through Wednesdays for $35— more evidence that good things come in threes at Ten Ten. 1010 Fleet St., 410-244-6867, bagbys1010.com —Joe Sugarman